Parmesan "Butter".RSS





100 % PARMESAN BUTTER.

1. Acquire  a significant amount of the rinds of Parmigiano Reggiano.

2. Pressure cook with 90% water and 10%heavy cream for 1 hour at high pressure in CUISINART.

3. Depressurize and strain through a very fine chinoise lined with cheesecloth.

At this point you can do one of 2 things entirely dependent on what tools you have access to.


#1. LOW-TECH.
Chill in a very cold ice bath preferably in a large laboratory glass beaker till there is a clear separation of parmesan fat and parmesan whey. Remove the fat carefully in one piece and wipe off any whey on it. Melt the fat and pour into suitable vessel to be used as table butter. Chill slightly and garnish with Maldon or other quality salt.

#2. HIGH TECH.
Requires a high capacity refrigerated centrifuge. I use BC/ALLEGRA-X15 with 4x750ml bottles.
Pour the combined parmesan liquid suspension (Broth of fat+whey) into high capacity centrifuge bottles. Balance the rotor and spin at 10,000rpm with a temperature gradient going down to 10 degrees C. for 30 minutes.
You will have a clearer separation of fat and whey. Remove the fat and proceed as in #1.

Multiple applications are left to your imagination.
It is particularly excellent with buttermilk biscuits or pasta with parmesan butter and cheese.

NOTES: I am specifically referring to the cuisinart pressure cooker. It was filled with parmesan rinds roughly to the water line maximum and the combined liquid was poured in to that maximum water line. Obviously the more rinds you use the more fat and more flavor you get in the whey.

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Flavor Clarity RSS



Morel Dashi

Scallop . Beni Tade . Sea Beans

 

Purity of flavors is most often exhibited in carefully layered Japanese inspired cookery.

Visually simple but because every component is at it's peak quality and cooking method, everything comes together in a neat stack of flavors.

None overwhelming the others.

That is what we call balance.

 

The secret to a perfect mushroom Dashi is to combine all the ingredients and not cook it for at least 3 hrs.

It is subsequently cooked for less than 10 minutes.

Use Dry Morels

Clear Soup.

Clear Flavors.

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Mise.RSS

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Kumamoto.RSS


Kumamoto Oyster . Hosui Pear . Green Coriander . Sudachi . Brown Butter
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Pomegranate Sumac.RSS


Fresh Sumac Soaked in Pomegranate Juice and now going through dehydration to be ground into a powder.
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Fresh Fennel Seeds in Caper Brine.RSS

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Dill Pollen 2012. Version 1.RSS

Essentially plant a huge raised bed with a ton of dill and wait till it gets to pollinated stage.
Harvest and dehydrate immediately on the same day.
Freeze drying would obviously be better however technologically inaccessible.
Grind with a coffe grinder reasonably dedicated to anything but coffee.
Store in an airtight container frozen till needed.

It has all the floral flavor augmentation qualities of fennel pollen but obviously with dill perfume.
The taller thicker stems can be saved for "Hay" in the post below this HERE.















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Texts From Eli. Vol. 1.RSS

A big part of creativity is sharing ideas. It happens on several mediums the least of which is "in-person" since we are all geographically challenged. The idea for this post came from a good friend Eli Kirshtein. We exchange several text messages bouncing ideas back and forth. Eventually sone of those ideas are revisited or put into practice. It is just a window into the evolution of conversations and compositions with a mix of technique, history and politics. Mild use of vulgarity unfortunately is present.


TEXTS FROM ELI.

Eli-San:   Yorkshire pudding made in clarified foie fat.

Studiokitchen:    Foie fat or Foie filled popovers

Eli-San:    Mangalitsa fat ?

Studiokitchen:     Lardo draped Yorkshire pudding...... Whipped lardo?

Eli-San:    Out of a siphon, straight to the fat, maybe a fryer. Lighter? Crispy?

Studiokitchen:     Ooooh a whipped lardo croquette.

Eli-San:      Elaborate.

Studiokichen:     Dusted with vinegar powder.

Studiokitchen:    Easy...just "pane-anglaise".

Eli-San:     Remember, traditional Argentinian recipe for empanadas calls for 1
part beef 2 parts onions 2 parts beef fat.

Studiokitchen:     True....Lardo Brandade?

Eli-San:     Fried rillette is delicious.

Studiokitchen:      Isn't that called carnitas haha.

Eli-San:      Got to bread it! Fritters!

Studiokitchen:      With a fruit mostarda.

Eli-San:      Maybe beignet like. Tasting like a turnover.

Studiokitchen:     Asian pear mostarda cooked tempura or beer batter.

Eli-San:        White beer sorbet.

Studiokitchen:       Sweet...... Good idea...... Peach mostarda beignet..... with peach
lambic beer batter.

Eli-San:    Exactly.  With the choucroute dinner..

Studiokitchen:       Use lindemans Peche for batter.

Eli-San:      Maybe green peaches for the filling, get crunch and acid.

Studiokitchen:    Yes...obviously apples will work too.

Eli-San:     Sure, but peaches are so amazing. Summer vs fall.

Studiokitchen:       For Sure.

Eli-San:       Apples with sorghum, peaches with honey.

Studiokitchen:        Choucroute Garni is one of my favorite meals but nobody in America.
f**king makes it properly

Eli-San:       Agreed.......and doing it from one hog would rock.

Studiokitchen:   Yup.


Follow on Twitter @EliKirshtein.




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Green Cumin SeedsRSS


Fresh Green Cumin Seeds.
Hydroponically grown specifically to seed.

They are a floral and amazing interpretation of the flavor of dried cumin we are used to.

Endless possibilities.
Pickled green cumin seeds.
Green cumin Yuzu kosho
Freeze dried green cumin powder
Green cumin caponata.
Green Cumin in caper brine.
Green cumin-golden raisin savory granola.
Green cumin vinegar.
Green Cumin-"everything bagel" mix.

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Pimenton-TogarashiRSS


Re-blending condiments is the easiest way to add interesting touches to food. The combination of excellent Smoked Paprika as the base of Togarashi along with all the other typical components results in a great variation of the Japanese condiment.

In this case:

Pimenton Ahumado.
Sansho Pepper
Dehydrated Yuzu Peel
Black Sesame Seed
White Sesame Seed
Freeze Dried Ginger
Toasted Nori

And while the Japanese call it SEVEN pepper spice I added 3 more.

Powdered Red Miso.
Cayenne.
Maldon Salt.

I used it HERE.




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