Parmesan "Butter".
- Friday, April 12, 2013 |
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Morel Dashi
Scallop . Beni Tade . Sea Beans
Purity of flavors is most often exhibited in carefully layered Japanese inspired cookery.
Visually simple but because every component is at it's peak quality and cooking method, everything comes together in a neat stack of flavors.
None overwhelming the others.
That is what we call balance.
The secret to a perfect mushroom Dashi is to combine all the ingredients and not cook it for at least 3 hrs.
It is subsequently cooked for less than 10 minutes.
Use Dry Morels
Clear Soup.
Clear Flavors.









A big part of creativity is sharing ideas. It happens on several mediums the least of which is "in-person" since we are all geographically challenged. The idea for this post came from a good friend Eli Kirshtein. We exchange several text messages bouncing ideas back and forth. Eventually sone of those ideas are revisited or put into practice. It is just a window into the evolution of conversations and compositions with a mix of technique, history and politics. Mild use of vulgarity unfortunately is present.
TEXTS FROM ELI.
Eli-San: Yorkshire pudding made in clarified foie fat.
Studiokitchen: Foie fat or Foie filled popovers
Eli-San: Mangalitsa fat ?
Studiokitchen: Lardo draped Yorkshire pudding...... Whipped lardo?
Eli-San: Out of a siphon, straight to the fat, maybe a fryer. Lighter? Crispy?
Studiokitchen: Ooooh a whipped lardo croquette.
Eli-San: Elaborate.
Studiokichen: Dusted with vinegar powder.
Studiokitchen: Easy...just "pane-anglaise".
Eli-San: Remember, traditional Argentinian recipe for empanadas calls for 1
part beef 2 parts onions 2 parts beef fat.
Studiokitchen: True....Lardo Brandade?
Eli-San: Fried rillette is delicious.
Studiokitchen: Isn't that called carnitas haha.
Eli-San: Got to bread it! Fritters!
Studiokitchen: With a fruit mostarda.
Eli-San: Maybe beignet like. Tasting like a turnover.
Studiokitchen: Asian pear mostarda cooked tempura or beer batter.
Eli-San: White beer sorbet.
Studiokitchen: Sweet...... Good idea...... Peach mostarda beignet..... with peach
lambic beer batter.
Eli-San: Exactly. With the choucroute dinner..
Studiokitchen: Use lindemans Peche for batter.
Eli-San: Maybe green peaches for the filling, get crunch and acid.
Studiokitchen: Yes...obviously apples will work too.
Eli-San: Sure, but peaches are so amazing. Summer vs fall.
Studiokitchen: For Sure.
Eli-San: Apples with sorghum, peaches with honey.
Studiokitchen: Choucroute Garni is one of my favorite meals but nobody in America.
f**king makes it properly
Eli-San: Agreed.......and doing it from one hog would rock.
Studiokitchen: Yup.
Follow on Twitter @EliKirshtein.