Evaporation Technology Proliferation: Centrifan-PERSS

Evaporation technology presents a lot of interesting possibilities for flavor extraction, separation and reduction. Recently while searching the internet for ideas I came across an interesting device called the CENTRIFAN PE manufactured by MODULAR SFC. To be clear this is laboratory equipment designed for far more serious uses however the  intellectually curious cook should not pass up an opportunity to see what the possibilities are.                     The machine is relatively easy to set up and uses a self generating blow-down technology to evaporate samples without a vacuum pump within a closed system. It accepts a variety of rotors and vessels while centrifugal forces protect the samples from loss and cross contamination. Obviously size is an issue and the options of 6x 20mL scintillation vials or 4x 40mL vials would work best. The engineering of this machine while detailed seems pretty straight forward to make a larger unit that holds 4x 250mL bottles and I suspect voluminous production of some pretty neat things for the enterprising mixologist-bartender.                                         Lab equipment is certainly not cheap but then again this is $900 more than a brand new PACOJET  which very many restaurants have. Certainly the most interesting product in this category is the GENEVAC Rocket however it is gigantic in comparison, needs an attached water chilling circulator the size of a computer server, de-ionized water and costs slightly more than 2 brand new mini coopers. Ask your wife.....honey his and hers mini coopers or a Genevac rocket for christmas. There is an interesting video HERE where Mr. H. separates the flavor of jalapeno peppers from the heat. While one can certainly go out there to buy essential oils and extracts, there are lots of interesting flavors out there that are simply not commercially available. Galanga, Kaffir Lime, Mineola Tangerine, Thai Basil. As someone who lived in tropical countries for a good while, I have always contended that the flavor (actual aroma) of the habanero pepper would be lovely in a sweet context but sadly capsaicin is the mother in law of sweet-hot pepper flavor combinations. I wonder if this would work with the intrinsic spicy properties of ginger or mustard seeds. Let the games begin.
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Chargrilled Garlic Scape RigatoniRSS

                    Grill scapes on bincho-tan. Vacuum seal hot and submerge in ice bath. Puree thoroughly with minimal added water.                       Pass through a tamis.                       Process with semolina in the ARCOBALENO pasta extruder.                       It would be tragic if the flavor boiled out but thankfully it does not and makes possibly the best "aglio-olio" ever.
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Celery-Cellophane NoodlesRSS

Peeled celery julienne hydrated in pre-gelatinized starch water ends up remarkably like cellophane noodles. The immediate application should be a modernized Thai beef salad .
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Quinoa Caviar.RSS

                    Pressure cooked quinoa in fish stock, kombu and squid ink. Cooled and seasoned with salt and Arbequina olive oil.
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Submersion Grid Shelf.RSS

For the last few years I have been very interested in product design more from a perspective of need than one of actually positioning myself as a designer. As technology and equipment continues to evolve in cuisine, certain holes are left open to be filled. There are low and high tech solutions to every problem assuming an issue rises to a level of being addressed as a problem. In many situations there is a need to have an ISI whip container kept warm and usually in a water bath. While ISI does in fact make a thermos (THERMOWHIP) version of the container, it does not stay nearly warm enough through an 8 hour service. In addition to that there is a need to use the uninsulated whippers because they can be used to hold Hollandaise, Bearnaise and Sabayon type suspensions at specific temperatures in a water bath to avoid coagulation and hold at safe temperatures. The best precise way to do that is in a water bath with a  circulator. The problem is containers tend to float based on content volume, other things in the bath get knocked around and it just looks generally messy and disorganized. It is also designed to let the water level be at that 2/3 full sweet spot. I had a chat with a friend  who is an expert in metallurgy to make me a structurally sound submersion shelf that does not touch the bottom of the water bath, stainless steel of course to prevent rust and a bottom grid to allow water circulation. It works brilliantly, holds 5 whippers and keeps things neatly in place. A simple solution but highly effective.                                                
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Tare-ManisRSS

Tare-Manis is a fantastic variant on Asian barbecue sauces. It is essentially a combination ofTARE and KETCAP MANIS. I prefer  Tare to include roasted chicken thighs and legs chopped up and roasted as part of the reduction for a deep roasted flavor counterpoint especially if the end product is charcoal grilled. Bincho-tan charcoal and roast chicken tare is the perfection of the art of grilling.

Both Tare and Kecap manis are generally used as a light glaze so to intensify the flavors I cooked it all sous vide for 48hrs @72C to extract the full effect of star anise, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves.

Simply strain trough a fine chinoise pressing hard on the solids as the chicken tends to abosorb a bit of the sauce. Use as a finishing glaze and even a few drops added to a sage brown butter creates mystery.

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Asparagus Carbonara Modernista.RSS

Asparagus is one of the ingredients that is most certainly overcooked 100% of the time.There is a Ducassian precedent for serving raw asparagus however salt cured vacuum sealed asparagus tastes much better. The pseudo cooking process is furthermore sped up by gently slicing each asparagi lengthwise. Do not try to be a masochist and show your knife skills, it is not only imprecisebut a complete waste of time. Use a Japanese mandoline.

It is imperative to obviously use the firmest hard fresh asparagus.These were from Tom Culton of CULTON ORGANICS and most certainly the best asparagus in the Philadelphia area. Toss gently with MALDON plain salt and vacuum seal for 15 minutes. Open the bag, rinse and dry thoroughly. Toss  lightly with olive oil and blowtorch for 20 seconds to get some char (no relation to the use of carbon-ara).

CARBON-ARA

Cook your bacon, pancetta or guanciale depending on your proclivities for Italian authenticity till sufficiently rendered and deglaze with white wine. More importantly make yourself some starch water by overboiling some cheap pasta and saving the water. While the intent is to use the asparagus as the noodle, trust me you can take pasta out of Italy but it is a bad idea to take Italy out of pasta. YOU NEED THE STARCH WATER that is unless you are cooking for some trendy gluten-free types. Add starch water to bacon-wine and boil to emulsify. Very quickly add this mixture to your previously prepared asparagus and toss with a mixture of Pecorino and Parmesan Cheeses. I say 3:1 ratio parmigianno-pecorino. Top with a poached egg.

Grate on BALINESE LONG PEPPER with a fine MICROPLANE.

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Storage.RSS

What if we stored ingredients just like they exist in nature.

Nothing shows better commitment to handling ingredients than  seafood storage.

The refrigerated ice drawer with a drain though expensive should be mandatory.

A sense of order makes it a true pleasure to come to work everyday.

 

 

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IDSK-4 Pictures.RSS

[caption id="attachment_104" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Watermelon Gimlet . Gin .Yuzu Sake . Lime Cordial"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_107" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Powdered Lovage Ice Cream . Steelhead Trout Roe . Celery-Jalapeno Relish"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_112" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Torn Scallop . Kimchi . Coriander Kosho Yoghurt . Asian Pear Pickles"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_108" align="aligncenter" width="299" caption="Morel Mushroom Custard . Chinese Long Beans . Sesame Dressing"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_109" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="King Trumpet Mushroom . Speck . Garlic Miso"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_101" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Broken Foie Gras . Cucumber . Smoked Worcestershire Sauce . Honey"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_110" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Carrot Stew . Onsen Egg . Xo Sauce"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_111" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Country Pate . Watermelon . Picholine Olive . BBQ Potato Chip Gnocchi"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_105" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Hiramasa . Rhubarb Harissa . Escabeche Vinaigrette"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_106" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Lamb Belly . Peas and Parsnips . Chorizo Soffrito"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_100" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Skirt Steak . Roasted Grape and Black Bean Jus . Pine Nut Praline . Hobbs Bacon"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_102" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="St Agur . Toasted Strawberries . Purslane . Sauternes Raisins"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_103" align="aligncenter" width="520" caption="Drunken Milk Jam Ice Cream . Shave Chocolate Chip Cookies"][/caption]    
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IDEAS IN FOOD - STUDIOKITCHEN Vol. 4

May 27, 2011

 

Watermelon Gimlet

gin . yuzu sake . lime cordial

Powdered Lovage Ice Cream

steelhead trout roe, celery-jalapeno relish

Torn Scallops

kimchi, coriander-kosho yoghurt, Asian pear pickles

Morel Mushroom Custard

chinese long beans, sesame dressing

Onion Lobster Soup

grilled cheddar cheese

King Trumpet Mushroom

speck, garlic miso

Broken Foie Gras

cucumber, smoked Worcestershire sauce, honey

Carrot Stew

xo sauce, onsen egg

Sea Urchin Rigatoni

seaweed butter, duck confit, sea urchin bottarga

Country Pate

watermelon,picholine olives, BBQ potato chip gnocchi

Blackened Hiramasa

rhubarb harissa, escabeche vinaigrette

Lamb Belly

peas and parsnips, chorizo soffrito

Skirt Steak

roasted grape and black bean jus, pine nut praline, hobbs bacon

St Agur

toasted strawberries, purslane, sauternes saturated raisins

Drunken Milk Jam Ice Cream

shaved chocolate chip cookies

French Toast

citrus marmalade, lemon-brie ice cream

 

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