Fresh Dill Seeds 2012.RSS


Allowing Dill plants to go to seed yield these green floral fresh dill seeds which add a new dimension of dill flavor to various preparations. You can Imagine a green dill granola or a sea urchin pasta with green dill and horseradish butter.
Posted in Studiokitchen

Texts From Eli. Vol. 1.RSS

A big part of creativity is sharing ideas. It happens on several mediums the least of which is "in-person" since we are all geographically challenged. The idea for this post came from a good friend Eli Kirshtein. We exchange several text messages bouncing ideas back and forth. Eventually sone of those ideas are revisited or put into practice. It is just a window into the evolution of conversations and compositions with a mix of technique, history and politics. Mild use of vulgarity unfortunately is present.


TEXTS FROM ELI.

Eli-San:   Yorkshire pudding made in clarified foie fat.

Studiokitchen:    Foie fat or Foie filled popovers

Eli-San:    Mangalitsa fat ?

Studiokitchen:     Lardo draped Yorkshire pudding...... Whipped lardo?

Eli-San:    Out of a siphon, straight to the fat, maybe a fryer. Lighter? Crispy?

Studiokitchen:     Ooooh a whipped lardo croquette.

Eli-San:      Elaborate.

Studiokichen:     Dusted with vinegar powder.

Studiokitchen:    Easy...just "pane-anglaise".

Eli-San:     Remember, traditional Argentinian recipe for empanadas calls for 1
part beef 2 parts onions 2 parts beef fat.

Studiokitchen:     True....Lardo Brandade?

Eli-San:     Fried rillette is delicious.

Studiokitchen:      Isn't that called carnitas haha.

Eli-San:      Got to bread it! Fritters!

Studiokitchen:      With a fruit mostarda.

Eli-San:      Maybe beignet like. Tasting like a turnover.

Studiokitchen:     Asian pear mostarda cooked tempura or beer batter.

Eli-San:        White beer sorbet.

Studiokitchen:       Sweet...... Good idea...... Peach mostarda beignet..... with peach
lambic beer batter.

Eli-San:    Exactly.  With the choucroute dinner..

Studiokitchen:       Use lindemans Peche for batter.

Eli-San:      Maybe green peaches for the filling, get crunch and acid.

Studiokitchen:    Yes...obviously apples will work too.

Eli-San:     Sure, but peaches are so amazing. Summer vs fall.

Studiokitchen:       For Sure.

Eli-San:       Apples with sorghum, peaches with honey.

Studiokitchen:        Choucroute Garni is one of my favorite meals but nobody in America.
f**king makes it properly

Eli-San:       Agreed.......and doing it from one hog would rock.

Studiokitchen:   Yup.


Follow on Twitter @EliKirshtein.




Posted in Studiokitchen

SpringRSS


Sorrel Ice Cream . Ikura No Shoyu . Green Dill Seed 



Saba . White Asparagus . Grapefruit . Celery . Pickled Ramp . Chive Blossom



Shima Aji . Green Coriander Kosho . Sesame Parsnip . Fuyu Persimon Vinegar



Onsen Egg . Smoked Eggplant . Ayu Vinaigrette . XO Sauce



Instant Morel Oatmeal . Rainwater Madeira . Truffle Juice



Hiramasa . Mojama . Apple Miso . Daikon . Olive



Celery Root Milk . Chaource Ice Cream . Puffed Corn . Celery Marmalade
Posted in Studiokitchen

Ramp Pickled Garlic.RSS




Acquired some tender sweet fresh garlic ideal for pickling.
After a 20 second blanch-refresh a particular flavor memory came to mind.

That flavor memory is the finest pickle recipe in the land ...... by our good friends at IDEASINFOOD.

You have to pickle ramp bulbs for a minimum of 5 days and then use that pickle liquid to pickle the young garlic above.
The flavor  of the garlic after 1 week is tremendous.

The recipe is right over    >>>>      HERE.


Posted in Studiokitchen

Green Cumin SeedsRSS


Fresh Green Cumin Seeds.
Hydroponically grown specifically to seed.

They are a floral and amazing interpretation of the flavor of dried cumin we are used to.

Endless possibilities.
Pickled green cumin seeds.
Green cumin Yuzu kosho
Freeze dried green cumin powder
Green cumin caponata.
Green Cumin in caper brine.
Green cumin-golden raisin savory granola.
Green cumin vinegar.
Green Cumin-"everything bagel" mix.

Posted in Studiokitchen

Pimenton-TogarashiRSS


Re-blending condiments is the easiest way to add interesting touches to food. The combination of excellent Smoked Paprika as the base of Togarashi along with all the other typical components results in a great variation of the Japanese condiment.

In this case:

Pimenton Ahumado.
Sansho Pepper
Dehydrated Yuzu Peel
Black Sesame Seed
White Sesame Seed
Freeze Dried Ginger
Toasted Nori

And while the Japanese call it SEVEN pepper spice I added 3 more.

Powdered Red Miso.
Cayenne.
Maldon Salt.

I used it HERE.




Posted in Studiokitchen

60 Day Dry Aged Duck.RSS


Above BEFORE:    ORIGINAL POST LINKED HERE.

Below  AFTER : 60 Days Exactly Today.





Original Weight : 732 Grams

60 Day Weight : 717 Grams

Flavor : Intensely complex with a slight aftertaste of the cheese "Ami Du Chambertin"

REALLY GOOD READING MATERIAL......if you are interested in advanced Dry-Aging.
Posted in Studiokitchen

Allium.RSS



Ricotta-Etivaz  Ravioli . Anchovy Soubise . Ramp-Pea . Scallion
Posted in Studiokitchen

Madai.RSS





King Madai.



King Madai . Radish . Scallion . Pimenton Togarashi . Fuyu Persimon . Sesame Parsnip . Celery . Citrus

Posted in Studiokitchen

Ramp Gnocchetti. AEX-18.RSS


As the seasonal obsession with ramps continues one finds that the simplistic use of ramps while quite delicious really does little justice to the allium. The bulbs are absolutely best pickled while a puree of the greens has endless uses from savory ice cream to pasta. Standard technique requires you to blanch the greens at some point to get a vivid non-oxidizing puree. I do find that the exposure to heat loses a lot of the ramp flavor between blanching and puree process in a vitamix.

Answer to this minor problem = Pacojet.


I find that a super quick salted water blanch followed by putting it directly into liquid nitrogen goes quite a long way to preserve the flavor. It is then packed into a Pacojet container and frozen.


Processed you get fine  green  powder intensely redolent of ramps which will ultimately be the flavor base of the pasta.



On a side note I would like to run this puree in a centrifuge and make some kick-ass ramp butter. Click the "Beckman-Coulter" link on this page and read about "Allegra X-14" under "General Purpose Centrifuges".



Weighed and thinned out with a measured amount of water and added directly into the        AEX-18.









...........and the rest is history.

It obviously does not require $8 grand worth of equipment to make pasta however most chefs already have Pacojets and the resulting pasta when dropped into boiling water manages to retain most of the ramp flavor especially when simply served with butter and cheese. I would imagine simple dishes like Ramp-Aglio Olio or Cacio e Pepe noodles would be quite tasty simple food.

I am thinking shellfish like Abalone, Spot Prawns or Scottich Langoustine perhaps even chive flowers or leek ash.
Possibilities are endless.
Ideas are free.....sadly kitchen toys are not.
Posted in Studiokitchen

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