Specialty Flours for Extruded Pasta.RSS


Extruding pasta in-house greatly improves the cost effectiveness and quality of pasta in any operation. It is well worth it however to seek out the finest specialty flour mills in the country. While slightly more expensive for the base ingredient, the quality of the extrusions is exponentially better in taste, aroma and texture. Why skimp on quality after taking the time to fabricate your own pasta.

One such place I recently connected with is HAYDEN FLOUR MILLS in Arizona.
The named "Fine Blue Beard Semolina" yields the best pasta made so far in the ARCOBALENO EXTRUDER.



Incredible aroma, very complex nutty flavor redolent of lightly toasted wheat.
Hydration ratios so far are hovering somewhere between 30 to 33% by weight but I expect to have a conclusive ratio shortly.





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Sea Grass.RSS


Sea Grass from FRESH ORIGINS.
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Die Cleaning.RSS


At some point you just have to power wash pasta dies on a full sheet pan lined with a rack.
Removes every last remnant of dough in less than 5 minutes.
Return into storage in white vinegar.



You do not actually need an electric "power washer", a hose with a correct high pressure nozzle works quite well.




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Ora King Salmon.RSS

Salmon is considered boring by just about everyone these days.

King Salmon definitely is not and neither is smoked salmon which is rarely made properly.

Too much salt, too much smoke, wrong wood, adding sugar and critically the fat content of the selected fish.

So far the best I have found is ORA KING.

Tremendous fish, great flavor and color with excellent fat.

Perfectly adaptable to the Scotch style of Salt-Rinse-Dry-Pellicle-Smoke-Firm with heat-Cool-Oil Bath-Eat.


Resting in neutral grapeseed oil for 48hrs to remove surface smoke and increase palatability.

Frankly I am confused why sushi chefs are not serving this fish.

It is excellent perfectly raw and untouched.

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Watermelon Pickle.RSS

Sanditas AKA mexican Sour Gherkin looks like a baby watermelon and has a texture suitable for pickling.

The idea is to pickle them in a pickle liquid based on watermelon juice.

Rather than juicing you waste less time by peeling a melon, saving the rinds, puree the fruit and pass the pulp through a chinoise.

Logic would dictate that a pickle liquid needs a way to get into the fruit. Sandita skins are not porous and cutting them in half defeats the purpose of making them look like a whole tiny melon.

The best solution is to "Equatorially" pass a Japanese yakitori skewer or similar implement through it. The tinier the whole the better. It is a cold vacuum compression using a chamber sealer.  

MINIPAK MVS-45 from Polyscience

Watermelon juice should never be heated.

Make a standard highly acidic pickle liquid that is over-seasoned and dilute with watermelon juice after it cools.

Compress the Sanditas with the melon pickle liquid.

Wait 48 hrs.

Eat them.


Below............watermelon rinds pickled in watermelon juice pickle is a quantum improvement over standard pickled watermelon rinds.


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Cross Utilizing Entire Dill Plant.RSS















Details to follow.
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Dehydrated Hot Sauce.RSS


The leftover pulp from making HOT SAUCE after it was passed through a chinoise seems like such a waste to throw away. The flavor is excellent but texturally would have left the sauce not quite as smooth.









The final powder has all the flavor and aroma of a decent hot sauce. Freeze drying would probably result in an even more superior product.
The final flavor is sharpened with a little bit of fine salt and vinegar powder from TERRA SPICE.
It works as a great way to add complex hot sauce flavor to crispy things that are slightly liquid averse such as tempura batters or fried items.
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Burnt Shallot-Violet Mustard.RSS



Component list :

Roasted Shallot. (or Torpedo Onion)
Sherry Vinegar. (from Spain...Vinagre de Jerez Reserva preferably)
Pressure cooked Black Mustard seeds.
Miso Mash (Leftover from making soy sauce)
Agave Syrup (or mild honey)
Violet Mustard (the actual French condiment)
Senape (Mostarda Oil from Italy)

USE:

Charcuterie.
Oily Fish.
Meat.







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Strawberry Balsamic Elixir.RSS

The very act of reducing balsamic vinegar in a pot over a stove is probably considered treason in Italy. However balsamic reductions carefully made have redeeming culinary use. Traditionalists would say just buy better vinegar But there is balsamic reduction in the French Laundry Cookbook Ha !
Balsamic elixirs, a highly concentrated form of balsamic vinegar would suffer from scorching and losing the intrinsic  finer qualities due to uncontrolled evaporation and contact heat from any cooking surface, even induction would still lose the nuances in evaporation.
The idea here is to make a strawberry-balsamic glaze or elixir while preserving the flavor and finer qualities of both items.

The first step is to get excellent ripe strawberries, put them in a vacuum bag with a measured amount of good quality balsamic vinegar.
The bag is sealed, spread flat and frozen solid.



It is then defrosted in a chinoise taking advantage of SYNERESIS and a combined balsamic-strawberry juice leaches out.








The liquid is while delicious is not concentrated enough to be considered as an elixir  is then subject to further controlled concentration using a neat little evaporating centrifuge.

The curious can read more about how it works HERE.











It basically allows very controlled evaporation and moisture removal thereby concentrating the original sample.
You are left with a very intense strawberry-balsamic syrup with multiple applications from cocktails to food.
It  should be properly dispensed with an eye dropper.


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Sour Beef Jus.RSS

"Pince" The bones and meat (in this case Oxtail) with UMEBOSHI PASTE as opposed to the French tradition of tomato paste.

Proceed as per proper sauce making.

Used a pressure cooker here.

Results in a beefy, tangy delicious meat sauce.



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